As a custom-painter of model railroad rolling stock and scale signs, I've learned quite a few tricks to improve the quality of my work and make the job much easier. What's great about these tricks is the fact that a model railroader with any skill level will find them helpful and simple to do. Follow along as I let you in on some of my painting and decaling secrets.

Instead of using standard drafting or masking tape to mask your locomotive before painting, try 3M's Scotch brand "Safe Release" painter's masking tape, seen at right. It adheres to surfaces better than drafting tape yet releases easily without pulling off the paint. (I don't, however, recommend applying the tape over decals.)

This tape burnishes down so snugly that I no longer take the extra step of sealing its edge with the previously sprayed color to avoid bleeding.

The perfect burnishers for that wonderful blue tape (or for standard drafting or masking tape) can be found in a set of plastic sculpting tools made for use with clay and similar materials. The set shown below is made by Loew-Cornell. These tools will allow you to snug the tape into the smallest crevice or deepest groove, as shown at lower right.

Before you begin to paint, you can eliminate the possibility of spilling the bottle by making a simple paint bottle holder, as shown in the illustration.

Start by drilling one or more holes in a piece of scrap 2 x 4, using a wood-boring bit of a size just slightly larger than your paint bottles. Make sure you drill deep enough to hold the bottle securely, but leave enough wood to form a sturdy bottom.

This simple project is perfect for cluttered workbenches- and for clumsy modelers!

If you have trouble finding a silver paint that meets your expectations, I recommend trying a metallic cream called Rub 'n' Buff, available at craft stores or stores that sell framing supplies. I chose a metallic shade called Silver Leaf. This color is terrific for painting truck frames, especially when you want a weathered look. [Using additional tones enhances the relief.- Ed.]

Place a small amount of the silver cream on a piece of poster board, and dip a soft paintbrush into it. Remove some of the silver by stroking the brush on a piece of paper. Dab the brush onto a clean, unpainted truck frame. (The black or brown-black that most truck frames are molded in makes an excellent base color.)

For a well-weathered look, aim for unever coverage to let the base color show through. For a clean, new look, apply an even coat of silver followed by burnishing with a cotton swab. There's no need to overcoat with clear; when the material dries it becomes permanent.

If you apply too much, you can remove some silver with lacquer thinner and a cotton swab.

When it's time to clean up, be kind to your respiratory system and the environment by using a citrus-based cleaner to remove water- and solvent-based paint from tools and surfaces. I've had very good luck with a product called Orange Blast, pictured below. It's available in automotive sections of many department stores.

To clean a detachable airbrush cup, wipe out the excess paint and place it in a jar filled with Orange Blast (full strength). After briefly soaking the cup, insert a pipe cleaner through the stem to clean it. Make sure to rinse the cup thoroughly under hot running water.